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Post by stubram on Oct 1, 2015 19:11:01 GMT
Hi all.
been messing around with what I've taken to call 'Rees Stylee' and doing basic colours and sticking watered down chaos black all over it to see if it's for me.
with the hoards of unpainted miniatures I own, I think proper dipping is the only way forward.
question is, do I need the official £17 quickshade stuff in a tiny pot, or does £4 wood stain do the job? Is it actually the same stuff?
advice on what/where to buy online would be good, as well as the mat spray for after.
Cheers chaps!
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Post by nemesis on Oct 1, 2015 19:22:32 GMT
Ive read on TMP that "future" is what they use as stand in dip, apparently it is the same thing. I only use the army painter dip becaus of its convenience, you can mix your own type of shade/ varnish www.youtube.com/watch?v=EX71Vp9Zb5wthis person uses a standard polyurethane stained varnish, that was just one "google" i imagine you find other sources of how to make your own dip. If you do decide to make your own dip and use it, regardless of which varnish you use it will be high gloss, you will definately need to mat them. I have used army painter anti shine spray , but had VERY mixed results. Just used Geedubs "purity seal" spray , and it seems to be a new formula and i was very impressed, however it has only been used once>
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Post by nemesis on Oct 1, 2015 19:23:14 GMT
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Alien Dave
Friends of the Wyvern
I don't like snipers!
The Dave
Posts: 1,843
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Post by Alien Dave on Oct 1, 2015 19:37:21 GMT
On the rare occasion that I have been known to paint, I use Vallejo washes from EM4. Same sort of result, but a lot kinder on brushes/clothes/the cat. Other suppliers and shades are available... DW
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Post by stubram on Oct 1, 2015 21:17:49 GMT
On the rare occasion that I have been known to paint, I use Vallejo washes from EM4. Same sort of result, but a lot kinder on brushes/clothes/the cat. Other suppliers and shades are available... DW Cheers guys That sounds more up my street. Damn sight cheaper too. Would black be the standard choice? I"ve got a shed load of birigjtly coloured saxons and welsh to paint. Should I use a brown or sepia? i'm looking for the easiest way of doing masses of miniatures
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Post by madphil101 on Oct 1, 2015 21:51:50 GMT
My mate James uses Windsor and Newton peat brown ink (thinned) The pro answer is gloss varnish, thinned oil burnt umber/burned sienna then mop up the excess whilst wet then matt varnish (purity seal) That's pro weathering. Used for bone effects oils(Ie petrols) super shading. Something in the technique uses the word pin. Not sure what.
As to should you just buy cheap b and q varnish? You get what you pay for. Would you prime with Matt black emulsion?
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Alien Dave
Friends of the Wyvern
I don't like snipers!
The Dave
Posts: 1,843
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Post by Alien Dave on Oct 2, 2015 7:27:23 GMT
...Would black be the standard choice? I"ve got a shed load of birigjtly coloured saxons and welsh to paint. Should I use a brown or sepia?... I'll bring some stuff in next week so you can 'compare and contrast'. DW
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Post by stubram on Oct 2, 2015 7:56:08 GMT
Cheers dude. Got the painting bug and want to spank on and get my various forces table-top ready.
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Post by madphil101 on Oct 2, 2015 17:35:37 GMT
If you are over my way over weekend pop in and borrow a couple of pots of dips and washes...
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Post by stubram on Oct 2, 2015 17:52:20 GMT
If you are over my way over weekend pop in and borrow a couple of pots of dips and washes... Cheers dude. May give you a shout tomorrow if you're ok. Would. E good to test a few out
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Post by madphil101 on Oct 2, 2015 18:04:51 GMT
Aye text first my wife has revealed a selection of events we are now doing all of which are moveable... (Not by me. More that I am supposed to know when they will be but I'm not allowed more information. Somewhat akin to planning d-day but with less dead Germans)
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Post by stubram on Oct 3, 2015 7:32:39 GMT
Would watered down flesh wash do the same thing? I'm just thinking about stuff I have readily available
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Post by nemesis on Oct 3, 2015 8:46:53 GMT
Dont think so But all depends. Devlan mud used to be the "goto" wonder ink of choice for many, but the ******** have discontiued it with the new paint range. diceandbrush.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/testing-out-devlan-mud-alternatives.htmlhere is another review of replacements fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/devlan-mud-and-badab-black-wash.htmlAll depends on what you are doing........... Black UC, base, highlight. Black UC, mid, wash White UC, paint light , ink/wash White UC, base highlight , wash/ink Flesh tone was mostly a light ink, and things like agrax earthshade are a thin but more darker ink (see link above)
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Post by madphil101 on Oct 3, 2015 11:57:29 GMT
Devlanmud is awesome. I bought a fair stash of that. Agrax is IMHO better - flows nicer, is more wash than glaze. It depends on your paint style as its a part of a larger process for me whereas as a dip/glaze devlan works better.
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Post by stubram on Oct 4, 2015 7:49:33 GMT
Right. After messing around with Phil's washes, have ordered black, sepia, red, and green.
A new age of painting has begin....
Seriously, 5 models done in 30 mins, with another 5 ready to wash whilst the first 5 dry.
Warzone force should be done by the end of the day, but will be waiting for my new washes before tackling the Saga.
Cheers for all your help chaps
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Post by madphil101 on Oct 4, 2015 7:56:24 GMT
No worries. My first foray into inks was the citadel expert paint set where they suggested using them for depth. There was a flimsy booklet about using them as glazes.
That was proper back in the day. The paints have come on so far since then.
Most used unusual ink- purple/blue. Paint flesh grot green, brush over rotting flesh/bone. Purple blue. Instant zombie.... Add agrax if the zombie needs a wash
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Post by stubram on Oct 7, 2015 13:45:17 GMT
Just got my stuff through from EM4 - will give it a go onmy battletech forces, though may have to continue in the old way for continuity.
After that, my Saga Saxons are going to get the treatment.
Well chuffed with this realisation - I'd almost given up on painting after spending 3 hours partially painting 4 ogres, with another couple of hours to go.
Will be posting my efforts over various links
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Post by stubram on Oct 7, 2015 13:47:46 GMT
Oh, another question - all of my miniatures that have been washed are all slightly sticky (stop snickering Dave!). Is Matt varnish spray the only way to sort that?
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Alien Dave
Friends of the Wyvern
I don't like snipers!
The Dave
Posts: 1,843
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Post by Alien Dave on Oct 7, 2015 13:57:45 GMT
Oh, another question - all of my miniatures that have been washed are all slightly sticky (stop snickering Dave!). Is Matt varnish spray the only way to sort that? Sorry, couldn't help it! Army painter dip takes a while to dry - about 3 months, I think Once dry, a coat of matt varnish sorts it out.
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Post by stubram on Oct 7, 2015 13:59:28 GMT
Cheers whitebread
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Post by madphil101 on Oct 7, 2015 17:24:55 GMT
Depends on whether you painted it on or dipped too. I'd be inclined to give them a hairdryer blast...
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Post by nemesis on Oct 7, 2015 17:57:43 GMT
If youve "done em" with AP dip , then yh , at least 24hr tl touch-dry, 48hr to HARDEN! Be wary of AP "anti-shine matt", ITS GOT A MIND OF ITS OWN, i now use EE purity seal as it seems to have been changed from satin to matt.
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Post by tango on Aug 5, 2016 19:50:56 GMT
Just had a go with strong tone dip. Finished a few models warmachine and Warzone. Liked the results. I may be dipping for some time yet.
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Post by nemesis on Aug 5, 2016 20:00:46 GMT
Yeah , paint a couple of shades lighter, brush teh dip on, you just cant go wrong for quick painting stuffs
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Post by madphil101 on Aug 6, 2016 5:36:48 GMT
Remember that the dip will still follow gravity so when you leave it to dry leave it upright/flat. More important on bigger things.
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